Sunscreen, check. GPS, check. Ocean wave sensors, check. Scuba diving notebook, check. These are just a few of the many items a scientist might bring to the beach. But high-tech tools aren’t required to experience the coast like a researcher.
We spoke with two experts whose work brings them to our beaches. Robin Elahi, an advanced lecturer in the Oceans Department, based at Hopkins Marine Station in Monterey Bay, California, focuses on coastal ecology and the many natural and anthropomorphic changes that occur on the shoreline. Christine Baker, a coastal engineer, studies the physics of what you observe at the beach, including how waves break, drive currents, and move sand. She is an assistant professor of civil and environmental engineering at Stanford.
Here are a few ways to bring some science into your California beach day, according to our experts.
1. Read the waves
How ocean waves break at the beach can hint at the shape of the sea floor. Baker described how she watches for patterns, “You can infer the locations of sand bars based on where you can see intense, persistent breaking waves, often visualized by regions with abundant whitewater. Similarly, channels in sand bars can appear as contrasting darker gaps in the bright breaking areas.”
“Notably, rip currents – fast offshore flows which are dangerous for swimmers – often occur in these breaking ‘gaps,’ ” added Baker. “There are other visual signatures of rip currents, such as regions with consistent foam carried offshore or changes in water color. For example, lighter, murky-looking waters can signify where sediment is being moved offshore in a rip.”
2. Play ‘I spy’
Elahi said that he is inspired by the variety of creatures that inhabit the rocky shore and that his curiosity was sparked by mentors who encouraged him to study out in the natural environment.
“Some resources that will help you get acquainted with our local rocky shore inhabitants include websites from the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Stanford, and iNaturalist. With iNaturalist, you can contribute your observations to a global crowdsourced biodiversity monitoring effort,” said Elahi.
For Elahi, being able to ground what you learn in the classroom with what we can observe in real life makes a world of difference – and also makes teaching at Hopkins Marine Station especially enriching.
“While you’re out there, point out neat critters to kids and adults alike,” said Elahi. “Show them how to respectfully interact with nature, like by returning flipped rocks to their original position or picking up trash on the beach.”
3. Snap a photo
Scientists regularly use images to track and catalog patterns of waves, sand dunes, and other phenomena at the beach.
“We can track foam in videos to estimate the direction and speed of currents, identify rip currents, and extract changes in the shoreline position to estimate beach erosion,” said Baker. “With multiple cameras, we can even calculate the wave height and how the waves’ shape and energy change as they move toward the shore.”
She mentioned CoastSnap, a global citizen science project that crowdsources images to monitor coastal change and raise awareness of coastal impacts driven by climate change. The project was created in Australia but has since spread across the world. There are sites nearby in Santa Cruz and Monterey, and more across the California coast.
4. Notice how the coastline changes
If you visit your favorite beach after a storm, you may notice significant changes. And if you revisit the same places year after year, you’ll probably find myriad details that are different from when you first saw them.
“We often want our coastlines to stay static, as this protects our ports, homes, and other infrastructure,” said Baker. “However, nature constantly pushes to change our coasts through winds, waves, currents, and other coastal forces, often rapidly in events such as storms.” She added that coastal changes have become more prevalent due to climate change.
In recent years in Northern California and the Bay Area, atmospheric rivers have caused flooding and mudslides at the coast and elsewhere, leaving many residents with property damage and local lawmakers looking for protections against future storms.
“A common misconception of coastal engineering is that we can always protect coastlines from erosion and storms by armoring them with hard infrastructure, such as seawalls and dikes,” said Baker. “But this is not a universal solution, sometimes causing negative ramifications.”
Baker offered other examples of coastline protection that people might observe during a trip to the beach, such as buffers made by replenishing sand (a practice called nourishment) or oyster reefs, which dampen wave energy reaching the coastline. Baker notes that the success of these methods can vary by place, “In reality, we need multiple solutions, from engineered solutions to (unfortunately) retreat.”
5. To understand tides, look to the skies
For Elahi, any trip to see the intertidal zone – the area where the ocean meets the land between high and low tides – is an opportunity to contemplate our place in the solar system. “When we’re going out to the rocky shore, one of the most important criteria that determines the composition of the animal and plant communities is the tide,” he said.
The positioning of the Earth, the moon, and the sun all influence tides. You can see the changes yourself over the course of hours and, with some research beforehand, you can have a better understanding of what the tides are doing and why. “These are simple observations that link astronomical phenomena to the local conditions at the beach,” said Elahi. “Check your tide tables to plan your next trip to the beach!”
6. Ponder climate change
Most scientists can’t help but think about climate change when they visit the beach. But that doesn’t have to be a negative experience.
Elahi focuses on what he can contribute. “Find your strengths and allow that to guide how you can help. For example, I can integrate long-term ecological surveys with my teaching efforts, and some of those students will also go on to become ecologists; others may choose to focus on policy, legislation, or management. Most importantly, many will serve as ocean advocates in their community.”
Baker is optimistic about possible solutions to coastal issues where everyone has a role to play. “The efforts to co-produce coastal science knowledge with researchers, decision-makers, resource managers, and community members help me remain hopeful in the face of climate change,” she said. “This collaborative approach is necessary to ensure effective, community-driven solutions to complex challenges associated with sea-level rise, marine biodiversity degradation, and other emerging issues in coastal settings.”
Taking a moment at the beach to consider how you could contribute to a better climate future might lead you to get involved in beach clean-ups, community actions – or even a career in climate science or policy!
7. Be safe
One small action that can make a big difference is to educate yourself and others about coastal hazards such as water quality, rip currents, and tsunamis. Baker said it’s important to read up on these hazards before swimming, surfing, or fishing in coastal waters.
“Fortunately, hazard forecasts and preparation guidelines are available through the government and other entities to help reduce exposure to these hazards, such as the National Weather Service’s rip current hazard forecasts, the U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s tsunami preparation guidelines, and the California swimming advisory webpage,” said Baker.
8. Practice gratitude
Whether you love surfing, swimming, fishing, lounging in the sand, or exploring tide pools, the beach is a fascinating environment that we are lucky to enjoy. Both Baker and Elahi agree: we have a lot to be grateful for.
One local phenomenon Baker takes time to appreciate is the swell on the west coast of North America. “Surfers thrive in these waves,” said Baker. “Swells are waves that arrive from storms far offshore that often appear well organized, where waves have similar periods and directions. Additionally, the vastness of the Pacific Ocean and the shorter continental shelf can result in larger waves on the West Coast.”
“I work in a beautiful place,” said Elahi. “There’s a kelp forest in my backyard, and right now it looks pretty lovely.”