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Issue of
October 21, 1998


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Craftsmen restore Encina’s glory

BY LISA TREI

Crawling around in the dark inside the massive wooden fireplace in Encina South/Central, Bob Gillispie felt more like a spelunker than a carpenter on the job. He had just wriggled through a small vent at the top of the 18-foot-tall fireplace to find out how the structure was built so that carpenters could restore it while causing as little damage as possible.

"It was like a cave adventure," Gillispie says. "We shined our flashlights and [found] there were scaffolds inside."

As Gillispie discovered the secrets of the Port Orford cedar fireplace in the old dining room, Michael Urge pondered how to restore the black ash staircase in Encina East to its once-soaring grandeur.

"It's very difficult to use these old parts and make it structurally sound," the veteran wooden stair builder says about the 55-foot-tall structure. "Very difficult."


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Both Gillispie and Urge, and many skilled carpenters, have spent months restoring these historic features of Encina, parts of which are reopening today as the new home of the Institute for International Studies. The staircase has been rebuilt for everyday use, but the fireplace, due to fire code restrictions, has been restored for ornamental purposes only.

Encina Hall, an imposing sandstone building on Serra Street, first opened in 1891 as the young university's undergraduate male residence. At the time, it was considered one of the most modern dormitories in America. Among other amenities Encina offered a new-fangled device -- electrical lighting -- although many students preferred candles because it was so unreliable.

Encina remained a heart of undergraduate life until the 1950s, when growing complaints about deteriorating living conditions prompted the university in 1956 to move students out to make way for campus administrators. The building housed offices until a 1972 fire gutted the top floors of Encina East, causing more than $1 million in damage. The wing was abandoned for the next quarter century.

More than a year has passed since this once quiet, gloomy wing started to thump and rattle back to life. With support from the Stephen D. Bechtel Jr. Foundation, $27 million has been spent restoring and seismically reinforcing this Stanford landmark. The reopening of Encina East and parts of South/Central marks another step in the university's ongoing strategy to save its most important historic structures -- from Memorial Church to the museum -- while ensuring the old buildings meet the demands of their modern-day occupants.

"We want to continue the legacy" of the founders, says Ruth Todd, assistant university architect. "The university was built with quality. So many of the character-defining elements of the East wing were left, and we wanted to make sure these were preserved."

To carry out both projects, the university searched for skilled craftspeople. Cahill Contractors Inc., the lead contractor for Encina, hired Gillispie's employer, Mission Bell Manufacturing Co. of Morgan Hill, to do the general wood work, including restoration of the windows, wainscoting and the fireplace. Mission Bell in turn found Urge, one of a handful of people in the Bay Area who specializes in custom wooden staircases.

Jeff Dachauer, Cahill's superintendent, worked closely with Urge and Gillispie on both projects. He also has helped to restore historic sandstone buildings 40 and 50 in the Quad and Geology Corner. "You do stuff in these buildings that you never do in new ones," he says. "You don't know what you're getting into when you start tearing things apart and you have to make decisions on the spot. It's a big challenge having to work the old and new together."

Such projects have brought a range of artisans to campus, including stonemasons, glassblowers and wrought iron workers. Urge, a stair builder for 40 years, started learning his trade when he was 12 years old from his father, who owned a shop called Santa Rosa Cabinet Works. But even with so much experience behind him, Urge says the Encina staircase taught him new lessons.

"You could go to any school for 20 years and you would never get the experience you got on this stair in six months," he says. "It's a one-of-a-kind project. Where are we ever again going to get a stair like that, built in 1891, on the West Coast? It just won't happen."

When Urge first looked at the open staircase, he saw a sagging structure in danger of collapse. His job was to make it safe without changing it visually, and reuse as much of the original wood as possible to maintain its historic character and value.

"Ruth Todd, she was very insistent on using every piece of old material and if it wasn't usable, to patch it," Urge says. About one-third of the original staircase was saved. University researchers say it was probably tooled on the East Coast and shipped in pieces to campus and assembled.

The restoration project faced obstacles from the start. Tests from the Forestry Department at the University of California-Berkeley revealed that the stair was made from black ash, a wood that Urge says is never used in this part of the country. After several aborted searches, a supplier with matching wood was found in Wisconsin, where the original wood was logged. Urge says he doesn't know why black ash, which wasn't used elsewhere on campus, was chosen for the staircase.

"You have to look at it like this," he says matter-of-factly. "Maybe Leland Stanford at the time got a helluva deal on the wood, or he worked out a deal with the railroad that shipped all this material from the mills. Who knows?"

As the old staircase was taken apart, Urge discovered that it would have failed eventually because it was too heavy. To resolve this, specially manufactured steel parts were placed beneath the steps and anchored to the walls. Urge says that incorporating the steel and seismic bracing without changing the stair's character was difficult. "The hardest thing was using the old [wooden] parts and making them fit together with the steel," he says. "There was only so much room to work with."

Beyond such hidden modifications, Urge says, he did not work much differently from the original craftsmen. "Folks already had this worked out 100 years ago," he says. "The way the handrail was attached to the posts was superb. These were intelligent folks."

Urge made and restored the staircase's wooden parts in his own workshop in San Francisco before bringing them to campus for assembly starting last April. The addition of a fifth floor to Encina, the former attic, demanded additional parts, including new stair posts. A carpenter was brought in from Seattle to do fine hand carving for parts that could not be machine-tooled.

The end result is what Todd says the Planning Office envisioned. Many of the original parts, which are slightly battered or have names carved into them, add a touch of history. Today, the honey-colored staircase is an open, elegant structure, a piece of art that Urge guarantees will last another hundred years.

Similar to Urge's initial reaction to the staircase, Gillispie's first impression of the dark green fireplace was less than memorable. "It just looked like a wall," he says. "You couldn't see the craftsmanship."

Nevertheless, the Mission Bell carpenters set about dismantling the 18-feet-tall, 16-feet-wide and 6-feet-deep fireplace without the aid of original blueprints. Not knowing how it was built, carpenters started taking off the trim and discovered two small vents at the top. After crawling through one to get inside, Gillispie discovered that the upper panels of the fireplace were held in place by wooden blocks that could be turned to release them. Working from inside, the carpenters found it possible to take apart the fireplace in sections, including one piece 16 feet wide and 8 feet tall that weighed about 800 pounds. The skill of the original craftsmen impressed Gillispie, a carpenter for 12 years.

"It's probably the single most exciting thing I've done in my career," he says with a smile.

Painters stripped the pieces, revealing the fireplace's dark golden wood and detailed carving. "Then we started putting it back together again, and it connected right back to the original trimwork," Gillispie says. "It went together like a dream."

While working inside the fireplace, Gillispie and co-worker Keith Peters discovered that the two original craftsmen had left something behind.

"They signed it at the bottom when they started it in December 1890, and at the top when they finished it in February 1891," he says. "It took them three months to build it, and took us three days to take it all down."

Before the fireplace was closed up, Gillispie and Peters added their names next to the carefully scripted initials MMT and JER. No further record of the two men exists. "It was kind of eerie being in there in the dark," Gillispie says. "There we were, working on the same thing two other men did a hundred years ago." SR